Campo Felice Gravel Bike
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Gravel bikes are designed to take you further when the asphalt ends. But not all gravel is created equal: the term "gravel" encompasses a wide variety of surfaces that significantly impact the ride feel, speed, and stability. Understanding these differences will allow you to perfectly tailor your tires, riding style, and expectations.
Von Vincent Augustin 5 minutes read time
In this article you will learn: What types of gravel exist, how they behave on the road and what you should pay attention to – both in the planning and during the ride.
Fine gravel or hardpack are paths consisting of very small, closely packed gravel and sand particles. Often lightly compacted, they are frequently found in parks or forested areas.
Fast: One of the fastest gravel surfaces ever.
Stable: Tires roll smoothly and evenly.
Predictable: Minimal offset and hardly any loose stones.
Tire widths of 35–40 mm are ideal.
A light profile is perfectly sufficient.
Perfect for longer tours when an asphalt feel is desired.
Coarse, unevenly distributed gravel with stones approximately 2 cm in size and larger. Often found on newly constructed forest roads, farm tracks, or construction sites.
Unsteady and bumpy – the handlebars tend to wobble.
Slow rolling resistance: power is lost, speed decreases.
Increased risk of snakebites (punch-throughs).
Wide tires (40–45 mm or more) provide safety.
Tubeless is highly recommended.
Springy arms and a gaze far ahead: Recognize dangers early.
Wavy ruts caused by car traffic. One of the most unpleasant types of gravel – the name is well-deserved.
Hard and vibrating: Extremely uncomfortable.
Unstable: The bike “jumps”, contact with the ground worsens.
Unpredictable: Tricky on fast descents.
Reduce air pressure (0.2–0.5 bar less).
Drive loosely: Excessive tension impairs control.
Look for a better line: Often the edge of the path is smoother.
A mix of soil, roots, leaves, and occasional gravel. Very variable – it can be hard, soft, dry, or muddy.
Variable: Grip can change every second.
Easy to ride in dry conditions , significantly more difficult in wet conditions.
Slippery surfaces due to leaves, roots, or damp areas.
Profiled tires offer more safety.
Keep tire pressure rather low to maximize grip.
Practice weight shifting: consciously unload the front and rear wheels.
Loose, deep surfaces of fine, dry gravel or sand. Primarily found near coastlines, floodplains, or open agricultural areas.
Spongy: Tires sink in.
Difficult to control: handlebars “float”.
Slow: High effort required at low speed.
Shift your seat position backwards to relieve pressure on the front wheel.
Gentle steering movements: Any hectic movements will cause the car to slip.
Wide tires (45 mm+) are worth their weight in gold.
Paths consisting of a solid clay base onto which a thin layer of gravel has been spread – often found in communities or parks.
Very pleasant , as long as it's dry.
It gets slippery when it rains , because the clay layer becomes slippery.
Good grip , but be careful in curves.
Tire pressure moderate – not too hard.
Adjust speed if the surface is shiny (an indication of damp spots).
Avoid gravel edges that can push the tires away.
Gravel riding means freedom – but freedom only works if you know what's happening under your tires. Choosing the right tires, the correct tire pressure, and your riding style depend directly on the surface.
Those who know the differences drive more safely, faster and with more fun.
Fast & firm: Semi-slick tires
Versatile: All-round gravel profile
Technical & rough: Tread pattern
More grip = less pressure
More speed = more pressure
As a rough guide:
35 mm tires: 2.5–3.5 bar
40–45 mm tires: 1.8–2.5 bar
50 mm+: 1.5–2.0 bar
Stay relaxed: Use your arms and upper body as cushioning.
Looking far ahead: Recognizing dangers early.
Shift your weight in a controlled manner: depending on your grip requirements.
The same applies to gravel riding: the best line is not always the middle of the path.
Tire choice is more crucial for comfort and control when gravel riding than any other component. Fast semi-slicks or tires with a shallow center tread (35–40 mm) are ideal for hardpack and fine gravel . They roll efficiently while still providing sufficient cornering grip. If you frequently ride on rough gravel , forest trails, or technical sections, wider tires (42–45 mm) with a more pronounced tread pattern offer more grip and safety. For those primarily planning adventure rides, bikepacking, or exploring unfamiliar terrain, 50 mm+ tires are a safe bet – comfort and puncture resistance increase significantly.
To ensure you're never stranded on your rides, you should always carry a small basic kit: a multi-tool, two tire levers, a mini pump or CO₂ cartridge, a spare inner tube, a tubeless plug kit, and a chain lock . Additionally, a small first-aid strip , cable ties, and some duct tape are recommended – they can save the day in a surprising number of situations. The more remote the ride, the more important this basic equipment becomes.
Getting started is easy if you go out with the right expectations. It's best to begin with short rides on hardpack, well-maintained dirt roads, and forest trails – this will give you a feel for the different surfaces without overexerting yourself. Gradually work your way up to more challenging sections and consciously experiment with tire pressure, body position, and line choice to feel how the bike reacts. Many find their way into riding via komoot or Strava routes , which can be filtered by technical difficulty. You'll get into it even faster if you ride with experienced riders – technique, confidence, and flow will come much more quickly.
Not all gravel is created equal. Whether fine, coarse, deep, or hard: every surface has its own characteristics. Knowing what to expect allows you to react better, ride more safely, and enjoy your gravel adventures even more.
Gravel riding begins where the asphalt ends – and ends where you don't want to go any further. With the right knowledge, you can go further. Much further. 🚵💨
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